Kiribu

There are many Haute Routes (High Routes) in the Alps, but this title usually refers to the route between Chamonix and Zermatt. The route can be hiked in the summer or ski-toured in the winter. There are a number of variations, but the standard one is via Verbier.

We invited our guide, Bertrand, to come up with a 6 day route that included some more challenging descents, so we ended up taking a slight variation to the normal route, with an excellent descent to Trient and a unique overnight stay in a Bivouac.

The Haute Route is a mountaineering trip, and shouldn’t be taken lightly. Days can involve 7 hours of ascent, difficult skiing and steep, exposed climbs with little or no protection. Unless you are very experienced in the mountains I recommend you take a guide, especially as things can get very dangerous if the weather deteriorates. The guide is also more skilled at judging snow conditions, especially with respect to avalanche risk.

It is important to pack light, as you have to carry everything. Don’t be shy about becomming smelly – everyone is the same! I really did only take one set of clothes. There is an equipment list at the end of the article.

Most people fly to Geneva before taking one of the shuttle buses to Chamonix. I used Chamexpress who took me directly to my hotel.

We spent 9 days on our trip, with the Haute Route itself taking 6 days. We spent 2 days in Argentiere at Le Dahu, which is an excellent 2 star hotel. We were able to practice a bit of touring on Grands Montets, and practice our avalanche search in the training park near the Lognon Restaurant.

Our itinerary was as follows:

Day 1 (7 hours):

• Ascend early lift to Grands Montets, ski down to Glacier d’Argentiere and a steep start to the ascent of Col du Chardonnet.
• Descend Col du Chardonnet by abseil, then skin round to Fenêtre du Saleina and boot up the steep ascent to the top. A gentle ski across Plateau du Trient leads to a short skin up to Cabane de Trient.

Day 2 (4-5 hours):

• Diverge from the normal route to Champex, and skin up to Col du Pissoir, and ski down the fantastic Glacier des Grands and Glacier des Petoudes to Trient.
• A taxi to Le Chable will take you to the cable car up to Col des Gentianes and a short ski down to Cabane du Mont Fort.

Day 3 (8 hours):

• A long skin up to Col de la Chaux leads to a short ski down to Lac du Petit Mont Fort, before a gentle skin up Col de Momin.
• Diverge from the normal route past Rosablanche to Prafleuri and head over Col de Cleuson.
• A short traverse follows, and skin up Col de Sovereu. Ski down to the Glacier des Ecoulaies and then a long skin up to Bivouac Pantalons Blancs.

Day 4 (4 hours)

• Start with a short skin up to Pointe des Chamois and ski the fantastic descent down to the bottom of Pas du Chats.
• A steep skin up Pas du Chats follows, and then a gentle skin on to Cabanes des Dix to rejoin the main route.

Day 5 (5 hours)

• A short ski descent from the cabane leads to a long skin up to Pigne d’Arolla (3790m), the highest peak on the tour.
• Ski down the enjoyable run to the spectacularly situated Cabane des Vignettes.

Day 6 (8 hours)

• A night start with a narrow foot traverse before skiing down to the glacier. A long skin up to Col de l’Eveque follows before a fun ski down to the Arolla Glacier.
• Skin across to bottom of Col du M. Brule then climb the steep col – you may need boot crampons
• Ski down Haut Tsa de Tsan Glacier and then the final skin up to Col de Valpelline for a fantastic view of the Matterhorn.
• A long ski down Stockji Glacier to Zermatt in grand surroundings leads to the Zermatt piste network and a gentle ski in to Zermatt.

See more pictures here.

Equipment list:

• Hat
• Thin snood, which can be folded into a light hat
• Goggles
• Sun glasses
• Lightweight base layer top (wicking)
• T-shirt (to wear in the evenings or over
• Lightweight Booster or Belay jacket
• Softshell jacket
• Lightweight breathable waterproof jacket
• Lightweight thin gloves
• Thick ski gloves
• Light thermal long-johns
• Light waterproof ski trousers with full length zips
• One set of underwear
• One pair ski socks
• One pair light socks for the evening
• Touring or all-mountain ski boots (must have good walk setting)
• Skis (should be good for off-piste and not too heavy)
• Touring bindings
• Skins
• Ski crampons
• Boot crampons
• Ski poles with large baskets
• Ice axe
• Harness + karabiner
• Avalanche Tranceiver (New batteries for route)
• Shovel
• Avalanche probe
• Light rucksac – 40L or less
• Head Torch
• Spare batteries
• Thermos flask (3/4L)
• Water bottle (1L) – Platypus is ok, but insulate it!
• Sun Cream
• Toothbrush + toothpaste
• Antibacterial hand gel (no water version)
• Anti-blister plasters, e.g. compeed
• Personal medication
• Camera
• Phone if you want (Most huts have reception, some have WIFI)
• Cash and credit card for huts – allow about 100 CHF per day

The guide will bring a rope, maps, compass, repair kits and first aid